This post is also available in: polski
Peru – Cordillera Blanca (movie) PHS expedition.
Wyjazd Polskiego Himalaizmu Sportowego w Góry Cordillera Blanca w Peru.
During the month-long trip, I managed to climb the following mountains:
- Urus Este: normal route PD- (5432 m). Acclimatization from the Ishinca valley with Wojtek Mazik and Piotrek Rożek. Nice mountain that does not present technical difficulties. The panorama from the top rewards the effort.
- Ishinca: Celjska Smer D- (5530 m). The second acclimatization trip with Wojtek Mazik and Piotrek Rożek. Generally, slight climbing difficulties, mainly steep snow interspersed with one rocky bar. However, crossing the seracas was very spectacular and breathtaking.
- Mission Lunatica (6b, A0, 170 m). Supposedly, the highest-lying bolted multi-pitch route in the world (4,700 m). In a team with Michał Nowicki. I tried to beat the Vaca Loca variant (7a), unfortunately it didn’t let go. Later, Michał fell from the crux on the original (6c +), so we have A0.
- La Esfinge, (5325 m) Original Route (OS, 6c, 750 m). After an unsuccessful attempt to enter Artensonraju, together with Michał Nowicki we moved to La Esfinge. There we tried the path of the first conquerors of the wall. The first half falls smoothly. Unfortunately, later we lose the right line, which means that with much more difficult variants I break towards the top. Almost all the gear left in the wall has carabiners – a symbol of the repelling. Despite the difficulties, we manage to maintain the style of the OS and complete the road after 14 hours of adventure climbing.
- Nevado Churup, (5495 m) Polacos Banditos (OS, TD+, 500 m, M6+). Together with Krzysztof Zabłotny and Marcin Kraszewski, we are setting a new line. From the base camp, located by a charming lake at an altitude of 4,600 m, we set off at 4:00. After two hours of ascent, we are at the wall, where we hit the road at 6:30. The first lift is a demanding, large-scale climb (M6 +, 25 m). The second and third lead by a system of ramps, mostly snow-interspersed rocks. They offer beautiful climbing, similar to the Tatra Mountains (M5 +, two lifts, 50 m each). Then, steep snow interspersed with stones lead to the ridge of Nevado Churup. There is a simple ascent to the top. Return from the top 9 repeals in fragile and unpleasant terrain.
Peru, Cordillera Blanca (movie).
It was a good trip, both mountain and social. Despite a quick return from the Safe Kazbek project, several mountain goals were achieved.